Ornament News
Museums and Galleries 36.3
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ARIZONA
THE PHOENIX ART MUSEUM presents “Digital Print Fashion” at the Ellman Fashion Design Gallery through July 14. Advances in digital textile printing have brought about the widespread use in fashion design of a new range of prints in bold, eye-catching patterns and colors. Over the past two decades, technological advances in graphics software, photography and ink-jet printing have expanded the range of possible image sources, the potential for image manipulation, and the rapid production of intricate patterns in limitless colors. This exhibition features over forty works by contemporary designers including Mary Katrantzou, Alexander McQueen, Ralph Rucci, and Issey Miyake among others incorporating digitally printed textiles in their designs. 1625 North Central Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85004; 602.257.1222; www.phxart.org.
CALIFORNIA
THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF DESIGN AND MERCHANDISING MUSEUM AND GALLERIES presents “7th Annual Outstanding Art of Television Costume Design” from July 1 through September 30. Held each year at the Museum, the exhibit features designs by Emmy-nominated costume designers and supervisors. Each year the exhibition showcases over seventy-five costumes. Past featured shows include Game of Thrones, Downton Abbey, Boardwalk Empire, Smash, and Pan Am. 919 South Grand Ave., Suite 250, Los Angeles, CA 90015; 213.623.5821; fidmmuseum.org.
THE MINGEI INTERNATIONAL MUSEUM hosts “Allied Craftsmen Today,” from June 15 through January 5, 2014. Founded in San Diego in 1947, the Allied Craftsmen have been a significant community of mutual support and inspiration, many of whose earliest members are featured in the Museum’s recent exhibition “San Diego’s Craft Revolution—From Post War Modern to California Design.” Featuring current work of this group of sixty-eight active members, this exhibition will demonstrate the continuing vitality of one of the nation’s few remaining craftsmen’s groups that proliferated in the post-World-War-II era. 1439 El Prado, San Diego, CA 92101; 619.239.0003; www.mingei.org..
TABOO STUDIO presents “Point of View,” an exhibition featuring the work of Teresa Faris and Myung Urso from May 10 through June 23. Faris makes distinctive brooches out of silver and pieces of wood that has been chewed on by a bird, while Urso creates wonderfully textured sculptural paper jewelry. 1615-½ West Lewis St., San Diego, CA 92103; 619.692.0099.
THE CITY OF CARLSBAD’S WILLIAM D. CANNON ART GALLERY presents “Vanishing Traditions: Textiles and Treasures from Southwest China” through June 2. Showcasing textiles, costumes and silver ornaments, this exhibition features the life and culture of the minority peoples of Southwest China. The exhibition is selected from the stunning collection of local resident Bea Roberts, acquired during her visits to the Guizhou Province, when the cultural identity of its villages were primarily intact and before their traditions began to vanish in today’s globalization. The Bea Roberts Collection is the accumulation of more than a decade of collecting in the Guizhou Province, home of eighteen different minority groups. Shown from top are White Collared Miao baby carrier, Shidong Miao woman’s jacket, Dong embroidered man’s coat, Dazi embroidered woman’s shoes, and Dong Miao tri-layered silver torque. 1775 Dove Lane, Carlsbad, California 92011; www.carlsbadca.gov/services/departments/cultural/pages/william-d-cannon-art-gallery.aspx.
FLORIDA
GALLERY FIVE offers new articles of fashion and jewelry for this coming summer, from Kerr Grabowski’s silk crepe tops, to Patricia McCleery’s pendants. Also on sale to adorn yourself are Diane Prekup fiber web jackets and Ellen Hauptli’s silk Pi vests. 140 Bridge Rd., Tequesta, FL 33469; 561.747.5555.
HAWAII
The Hui No’eau Visual Arts Center, Makawao, Maui, offers a bamboo jewelry workshop on August 11 - 12 by Robert K. Liu, Ornament coeditor. He will teach heatbending of black bamboo for use as necklaces, earrings and other jewelry. Students will draw on their woodworking, metalworking and beading skills to work on this strong, beautiful and sustainable material. The Arts Center is situated near the coast of beautiful Maui. Shown are examples of bamboo jewelry incorporating artifacts, beading and metalwork; black bamboo and the Anna Kim House of the Hui No’eau Visual Arts Center. In addition during the Creative Arts Fest Master Class Camp, July 24 - 29, in Laurel, Maryland, he will teach bamboo jewelry making on July 25 - 26. Other instructors include Jeffrey Lloyd Dever, Sandra McCaw, Lindly Haunani, Maureen Carlson, Carol Simmons, and Ellen Marshall, all well-known artists in the polymer community. Makawao, Maui: info@huinoeau.com; huinoeau.com; 808.572.6560. Laurel, Maryland: kathyrn@kathrynottman.com; cabinfeverclayfestival@yahoo.com; For e-mail subject line: CAFMCC. www.polymerclayfests.wordpress.com.
INDIANA
THE INDIANAPOLIS MUSEUM OF ART presents “Majestic African Textiles” from May 3 through March 2, 2014 at the Gerald and Dorit Paul Galleries. The exhibition showcases a spectacular array of royal and prestige cloths, masking and ritual garments, and superbly beaded and embellished objects. Featuring more than sixty pieces drawn from the permanent collection and augmented with a few major loans, the show highlights a significant and diverse group of richly patterned and elaborately decorated textiles from North and sub-Saharan Africa. 4000 Michigan Rd., Indianapolis, IN 46208; 317.923.1331; www.imamuseum.org.
ILLINOIS
THE ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO features “Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity” from June 26 through September 22. Were the Impressionists fashionistas? And what role did fashion play in their goal to paint modern life with a “modern” style? This is the subject of the exhibit, the first to uncover the relationship between art and fashion from the mid-1860s through mid-1880s in Paris. Period costumes such as men’s suits, robes de promenade, day dresses, and ball gowns, along with fashion plates, photographs, and popular prints offer a firsthand look at the apparel these artists used to convey their modernity as well as that of their subjects. Further enriching the display are fabrics and accessories—lace, silks, velvets, and satins found in hats, parasols, gloves, and shoes. 111 South Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60603-6404; 312.443.3600; www.artic.edu.
THE FIELD MUSEUM presents “Fashion And The Field Museum Collection: Maria Pinto” through June 16. This presentation showcases clothing masterworks from the Museum’s collections, selected by esteemed Chicago fashion designer Maria Pinto. These works are presented in tandem with contemporary pieces created by Pinto and displayed exclusively at The Field Museum. Shown are Inuit raincoat of translucent seal intestines, Tema dress from Pinto’s Spring 2010 Collection, Eva top from Pinto’s Spring 2009 Collection, and Shana top with Kika skirt. 1400 South Lake Shore Drive, Chicago, Illinois 60605-2496; 312.922.9410; fieldmuseum.org.
NEW YORK
THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART hosts “Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity” through May 27. The exhibition presents a revealing look at the role of fashion in the works of the Impressionists and their contemporaries. It is also presenting “PUNK: Chaos to Couture” through August 14. The Met’s spring 2013 Costume Institute exhibition will examine punk’s impact on high fashion from the movement’s birth in the early 1970s through its continuing influence today. Featuring approximately one hundred designs for men and women, the show will include original punk garments and recent, directional fashion to illustrate how haute couture and ready-to-wear borrow punk’s visual symbols. 1000 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10028; 212.535.7710; www.metmuseum.org.
THE MUSEUM OF ARTS AND DESIGN displays “Wear it or Not: Recent Jewelry Acquisitions” through June 2. Over the past five years, MAD has collected nearly two hundred exceptional pieces of art jewelry. From classic mid-century works to computer-designed musical jewelry, the exhibit showcases the depth and variety of the new additions to its renowned permanent collection. The exhibition will feature nearly one hundred thirty works from around the world, with objects by artists such as Claire Falkenstein, Olaf Skoogfors and Art Smith from the studio jewelry movement of the 1950s and 1960s; several silver cuffs from India; alongside more recent works by emerging, mid-career and established jewelry artists such as Melanie Bilenker, Kat Cole, Mari Ishikawa, Keith Lewis, Jeremy May, Edward Lane McCartney, Iris Nieuwenburg, Arjen Noordeman and Christie Wright, Beverley Price, Axel Russmeyer, Sakurako Shimizu, Verena Sieber-Fuchs, and Kiff Slemmons. 2 Columbus Circle, New York, NY 10019; 212.299.7777; www.madmuseum.org.
THE MUSEUM AT THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY features “Retrospective” through November 16. The exhibit explores fashion’s relationship with its own history. The speed of the fashion cycle is faster than ever, and yet, in the constant drive for newness, the past is often used as a point of reference. Many contemporary designers embrace looking at fashion history as a fundamental part of the design process. Cutting-edge designer Yohji Yamamoto once said, “Going to the future means you have to use your past.” In doing so, designers create inventive and modern re-interpretations of dress. Seventh Avenue at 27th St., New York, NY 10001; 212.217.4558; www.fitnyc.edu/3662.asp.
THE FORBES GALLERIES hosts “Out of this World! Jewelry in the Space Age” through September 7. Curated by Elyse Zorn Karlin, co-director of ASJRA (The Association for the Study of Jewelry and Related Arts, LLC), the exhibit features pieces from over one hundred designers and lenders. Covering a variety of space-related themes through the context of materials and design, the exhibit also includes vintage memorabilia and art objects relating to space. Jewelry with space motifs from the Georgian period through contemporary work will be on display, as well as jewelry made from materials that come from outer space, such as: tektite, meteorite, pallasite, moldavite, and moissanite. Shown are Tampa necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, and Galaxies Whirl by Marianne Hunter. 60 5th Avenue, New York, New York 10011; 212.620.2200.
NORTH CAROLINA
THE MINT MUSEUM’s Randolph Street location hosts “Threads Of Identity: Contemporary Maya Textiles” through December 31. Maya peoples of Guatemala and southeastern Mexico are renowned for their time-honored tradition of magnificent attire. Among the Maya, dress is an outward expression of cultural pride. Dress also conveys one’s place in the world, signaling social identity and geographic origin or current community. Today’s repertoire of Maya traditional clothing, called traje, developed primarily during the Colonial Period (A.D. 1521-1821) as a forced adoption of European dress. Yet elements of traje reach back more than twenty-three hundred years.
2730 Randolph Rd., Charlotte, NC 28207; 704.337.2000; www.mintmuseum.org.
OHIO
KENT STATE UNIVERSITY MUSEUM offers a multitude of textile and clothing related exhibitions this year. The Museum presents “Resist: A World Of Resist Dye Techniques” through September 1. The exhibition is organized by technique in order to bring together examples from around the globe. The objects are grouped into three main categories of resist methods: mechanical, chemical and ikat.
East Main St. and South Lincoln St., Kent, OH 44242; 330.672.3450; www.kent.edu/museum.
PENNSYLVANIA
THE PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART features “All Dressed Up: Fashions for Children and Their Families” through December 1. The exhibit focuses on clothing from the late eighteenth through mid-twentieth centuries, comparing and contrasting adults’ apparel with children’s smaller styles. Garments and accessories from the Museum’s collection explore how evolving concepts of childhood have shaped what was considered appropriate in the past, the relationship of young styles to those of adults, why girls and small boys both wore skirts, who wore fancy clothes, and how children were expected to behave wearing these clothes.
26th St. and Benjamin Franklin Pkwy., Philadelphia, PA 19130; 215.763.8100;
www.philamuseum.org.
TENNESSEE
WARREN FELD JEWELRY DESIGN CAMP announces its next sessions: Contemporizing Traditional Etruscan Jewelry, from October 6 – 12, and Fringe, Edge, Strap, Bail, Surface Embellishment In Jewelry: Art Or Not?, from October 13 – 19. The first workshop examines traditional Etruscan jewelry. Students will learn and practice some basic techniques of bead stringing, bead weaving, wire working, color working, and design planning. The second workshop is to create a beadwoven BezelWorks centerpiece pendant. Shown are BezelWorks Olive Pendant and Etruscan Collar. 781 Thompson Lane, Ste 123, Nashville, Tennessee 37204; www.warrenfeldjewelry.com/jewelrydesigncamp.
TEXAS
THE HOUSTON CENTER FOR CONTEMPORARY CRAFT presents “CTRL + P” from May 31 through September 8. The exhibition features work by several contemporary artists who use open-source programs and 3D printers to conceptualize and create in revolutionary ways. Besides ceramic sculptures and downloadable designs of gallery infrastructure—walls, fixtures and more, the exhibit also explores uses of digital technology for jewelry. Created in 2007 by Erin Gardner and Margaret Drinkwater, The Opulent Project is a collective of metal and jewelry artists working in Portland, Oregon. For their Digital Ring project, the collective created contemporary jewelry from found digital designs. First collecting existing ring designs from a Google 3D warehouse, the artists altered the files to make the jewelry functional and, using the 3D printer, produced wearable rings made from gold-plated stainless steel and silver. 4848 Main St., Houston, TX 77002; 713.529.4848; www.crafthouston.org.
AUSTRALIA
THE GOSFORD REGIONAL GALLERY hosts the touring exhibition, “Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Sailor... 100 Women 100 Brooches 100 Stories” from May 24 through July 21. Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Sailor begins an old rhyme that little girls would chant to predict the profession of the man they would marry. Not in their wildest dreams could they have imagined that all the professions recited, from priests to lawyers, would in the future also be occupations for women. This exhibition features one hundred stories of great Australian women who have broken professional barriers and one hundred brooches made in response to these stories by one hundred of Australia’s most talented women jewelers.
THE POWERHOUSE MUSEUM features “Making It: 20 Years of Student Fashion” through October 7. Since 1993 the Museum has presented the annual Student Fashion display showcasing extraordinary designs by the top graduates from local tertiary institutions. This year’s display includes striking outfits from the top four fashion graduates of 2012 including Inder Dhillon from the Fashion Design Studio, Sydney TAFe; Andriana Jacky from Raffles College of Design and Commerce; Kathleen Choo from the University of Technology, Sydney and Ryan Samways from the Whitehouse Institute of Design. 500 Harris St., Ultimo, Sydney, New South Wales 1238, Australia; 02.9217.0444; www.powerhousemuseum.com.
BELGIUM
MODEMUSEUM PROVINCE OF ANTWERP presents “Silks & Prints from the Abraham Archive: Couture In Colour” through August 11. During the 1950s and 1960s, the famous couturiers Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent and Cristóbal Balenciaga all worked together with the Swiss firm Abraham for their exclusive fabrics. This company was specialized in printing silks. The exhibition tells both the story of the Abraham company and that of European couture, art and luxury throughout the twentieth century. Nationalestraat 28, Antwerp 2000, Belgium; 32.3.470.2770; www.momu.be/en.
CANADA
THE GARDINER MUSEUM features “A Bit of Clay on the Skin: New Ceramic Jewelry” from May 14 through August 11. The exhibit explores the appeal of ceramics, especially porcelain, in jewelry. Organized by the Fondation d’Entreprise Bernardaud and curated by the renowned German-born goldsmith and jewelry artist Monika Brugger, the exhibition showcases the versatility and allure of the medium, which can be modeled or cast, used alone or with metal, wood and stone, and vary in color and texture. The exhibition presents one hundred forty works and features the work of eighteen cutting-edge jewelry artists, including creations by such notables as Peter Hoogeboom, Evert Nijland, Ted Noten (The Netherlands), Gésine Hackenberg (Germany), Marie Pendariès (Spain), and Shu-Lin Wu (Taiwan). 111 Queen’s Park, Toronto, ON M5S 2C7, Canada; 416.586.8080; www.gardinermuseum.on.ca.
FRANCE
MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS presents “In The Line Of Sight: Contemporary Jewellery In France” from September 13 through March 2, 2014. This exhibition is drawn from its permanent collections, from which seventy jewelers and silversmiths have been invited to show their most recent creations alongside Medieval/Renaissance, Seventeenth/Eighteenth Century, Nineteenth Century, Art Nouveau/Art Deco, Modern and Contemporary works. 107, Rue de Rivoli, Paris 75001, France; 33.0.1.4455.5750; www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/english-439.
GERMANY
THE SCHMUCK MUSEUM IN PFORZHEIM shows “Small Size, Great Aesthetics: A Hundred and One Rings” through June 9. Albeit small, rings are works of art in their own right, displaying a multitude of shapes and designs and serving disparate purposes: as wedding bands or friendship rings, as a sign of mourning or a symbol of power and status. The exhibition will give an impressive overview of the huge diversity of these small-format works of art. Jahnstrasse 42, Pforzheim d-75173, Germany; 49.0.7231.39.21.26; www.schmuckmuseum.de.
GREAT BRITAIN
THE FASHION MUSEUM IN BATH celebrates its fiftieth anniversary with “Fifty Fabulous Frocks,” showing throughout 2013. Drawing from its collection, the exhibition includes a gold-embroidered Georgian court dress, an 1870s gauze-bustle day dress, a jersey evening dress by Ossie Clark, and a classic Chanel suit. The display also includes many other pieces from the collection, such as a Champagne bottle dress worn at a fancy dress party in Edwardian times. Also showing are an ornately embroidered man’s coat from the early eighteenth century and a pair of bondage trousers by Vivienne Westwood, the renowned Queen of Punk. Bath Assembly Rooms, Bennett St., Bath, BA1 2QH, Great Britain; 44.0.1225.477789; www.museumofcostume.co.uk.
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Our upcoming issue 36.3 contains
Eleanor Moty
Lola Brooks
Smithsonian Craft Show
SNAG Conference
Women Working Words-Facèré
Some of Our Popular Articles
Cristóbal Balenciaga Fashion as
Refined Art
Arline Fisch, Distinguished Artist
Polymer Clay,
A Modern Medium Comes of Age
Islamic Glass Beads,
The Well-Traveled Ornament
Philadelphia Museum of Art Craft Show 2012
Zhandra Rhodes The Art of Significant Loveliness
Wabanaki Textiles, Clothing and Costume
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